1633
Pjetër Mazrreku:
Report on a Visit to Northern Albania
A description of northern Albania and its martial
inhabitants in a report that Pjetër Mazrreku (Ital.
Pietro Maserecco), the Catholic Archbishop of
Antivari (Bar) and Primate of Serbia, sent to the
Sacred Congregation of the Propaganda Fide. In this
text, the archbishop adds a list of Albanian words to
show their affinity to Italian.
Short discourse on the Albanian nation and,
in particular, on the inhabitants of the
Dukagjin Mountains [Northern Albanian
Alps], by Pietro Maserecco, Archbishop of
Antivari, for the Sacred Congregation of the
Propaganda Fide.
The dioceses of Antivari, Scutari [Shkodra],
Sapatense [Sapa], Alessiense [Lezha] and Serbia
are crossed by the Dukagjin Mountains and
since the present archbishop who has his seat in
Servia is forced to traverse the said mountain
range to visit the Metropolitan, it is appropriate
to say a few words about these mountains and their inhabitants. In this way, when the Sacred
Congregation learns of the needs and problems of these people who have not been subjugated to
Turkish rule in two hundred years, it will no doubt take measures to ensure that they do not lose
their values and religion over time, as has been happening in the rest of Albania that is subjected to
the Turks.
Although these mountains are harsh and rugged, mother nature has not left them without fertile
valleys through which flow fine rivers that produce a sort of fish known as trout. In Albanian it is
called troft, with an ‘f’. There are also excellent vineyards that produce tasty wines. The air is very
good for the health such that no one can remember there ever having been a case of the plague
among them, because of the healthy climate and because they rarely travel to distant, infected
countries. When you leave the settlements of Bar, Shkodra, Sapa and Lezha behind at the coast,
you encounter these mountains that stretch from north to south without interruption for two days.
From the borders of the above-mentioned dioceses to Serbia it is about forty miles. In addition to
the narrow and difficult trails one has to take, nature has girded the region with a formidable river
called the Black Drin, which takes its water from Lake Ocrida [Ohrid] in Macedonia and flows
through the zone of Lower Dibra. It swells with tributaries as it continues its course through the
said mountains, until it flows down to Sadrima [Zadrima] in the diocese of the bishop of Sapa.
Sometimes the river destroys crops, in particular in the spring when the snow melts. But it makes
the land fertile, even though the soil is sandy. When millet was sown this year in the sandy soil, it
had to be replanted in many regions. The river passes by the village of Lezha and flows into the sea
in two branches near the port of San Giovanni di Medoa [Shëngjin], five miles from Lezha.
When the mountains and this river have been crossed, one enters a region called Sculaa [Shullan] or
Has bordering on Serbia. This region is inhabited by a great number of Albanians who are subjects
of the Sultan. Since the men of Dukagjin did not like to be called vassals of the Sultan because of the
word vassal and because they would have to pay tribute, they were treated very harshly. Many of
them, indeed almost all of them (as we have noted elsewhere) turned Turk, but they changed only
their names and did not renounce their faith. Hodjas, i.e. Muslim priests, have begun mixing in
with them accompanied by circumcisers to circumcise them. This territory is girded by another
river that can be forded in many places. It is called the White Drin, to distinguish it from the Black
Drin. This river takes its origin in a mountain region now called the Pechia [Peja] Mountains that
stretch from north to south, until it joins the Black Drin at the ford of Cucchi [Kukës]. This
settlement is named after a family of the same name that lives there where the two above-
mentioned rivers converge and in other places near Priseren [Prizren]. From what I heard from my
late father, they stem originally from Italy. They have been Muslims for about a century, and were
and are charged by the Sublime Porte with important duties. They serve in particular as sanjak beys
to keep down the inhabitants of Dukagjin. But this Cucchi [Kuka] family and other such Muslim
families have made little progress in this endeavour. In October 1610, Ahmet Beg Cucca [Ahmet bey
Kuka] assembled one thousand five hundred men to carry out a surprise attack on the villages of
Jabala [Iballja], but since the latter found out about the attack in advance, they gathered five
hundred of their men and forced the enemy into a difficult narrow gorge where they could neither
flee nor fight. They were stuck there surrounded by men who either wanted to kill them or to take
them prisoner to show off their victory. These courageous men of Iballja killed so many confused
and defeated soldiers, wounding them initially from a distance with their arrows and then
attacking them in hand-to-hand combat that even the sanjak bey was slain. Few of the soldiers
survived. It will be forever remembered that on that occasion, a Turkish horse was sold to the
victors for two baiocchi [papal coins] and a sabre was sold for one baiocco. The men of Dukagjin
had numerous other such victories, enough to fill a book with their glorious adventures.
On the number of inhabitants in the above-mentioned mountains, on their needs and those
of all of Albania.
The inhabitants are primarily those of the villages of Iballja and Puuka [Puka] who have the custom
of going to Serbia to maraud and plunder both Turks and Serbs. Iballja and Puka consist together of
about eight hundred men in arms. Continuing to the right towards the south are the regions called
Fante la maggiore [Greater Fan] and Fante la minore [Lesser Fan] that have at least one thousand
men in arms. Continuing further southwards are Mireditta [Mirdita], Vlascagni [Vlashanj], Kthella
and Selita with many other villages that make up some three thousand warlike men of inestimable
strength. […]
Finally, it is said that the Catholic Albanians – there are also many people of Greek rite on the
border with Greece – in particular those of the above-mentioned mountains, of Emathia [Mat],
of Myssia [?] and of Diberi [Dibrri] with the above-mentioned dioceses, make up some twelve
thousand men in arms, not to mention family members who remain behind to do the farming.
Such a number of men is sufficient to frighten any great power – the Serbs, the Greeks, the
Bulgarians, the Bosnians or the Hungarians, as these latter forces that do not keep their weapons
with them at home. The Albanians, on the other hand, go around armed both at home and when
outside, something that surprises other people. Other nations do not dare to keep their arms,
whereas the Albanians, especially their leaders called Chieffali [qefali], even go around armed
when they talk to the Turkish sanjak beys.
The people of this nation (as the Ragusan nobleman and Benedictine monk Tuberone Cerva
[Ludovicus Cerva Tuberon] noted in a little book on the origins of the Turks, written in Latin) are
descendant of the ancient Macedonians because nowhere in Greek or Latin history was it ever
written that they came from Asia, as some modern authors assert. Expelled and pushed out by the
Serbs, Bulgarians and other foreign peoples, they withdrew into the mountains. They were called
Albanese after a town in Albania called Alba. Their language is different from the other languages
and has many Italian and Greek words in it. Here are some of the Italian words:
bread
buche or buccella
[bukë]
horse
caale
[kalë]
man
maschule
[mashkullë]
woman
femene
[femën, femër]
chicken
pulle
[pulë]
song
canghe
[këngë]
sky
chiel
[qiell]
people
gind
[gjind]
nation
popule
[popull]
lake
lechee
[liqen]
leg
cambe
[këmbë]
sea
pelagh
paper
carthe
[kartë]
image
scembeleture
[shëmbëlltyrë]
miracle
mrecule
[mrekulli]
flesh
pulpe
[pulpë]
sword
scpatta
[shpatë]
shield
schiyt
[shqyt]
bow
ark
[ark, hark]
arrow
sceghiette
[shigjetë]
grain
grune
[grunë, grurë]
millet
mel
[mel]
hare, rabbit
lepure
[lepur]
deer
capruel
[kaproll]
face
faghie
[faqje]
sign
scegn
[shenj]
knot
nye
[nye]
ash tree
frascene
[frashën, frashër]
oak tree
chiar
[qarr]
flock
grigh
[grigjë]
fish
pesck
[peshk]
trout
trofte
[troftë]
and many others. To what extent these people are devoted to the Apostolic See, I cannot tell. From
my own experience, I know them to be very faithful and so devoted to the bonds of friendship that
they regard them as inviolable to death. They place great store in honour. With regard to women,
they are extremely jealous and consider any irregularity in this field as a grave insult. They are by
nature capricious and choleric, but then they calm down and talk to one another. […] For as long
as they are Christians, they are of great potential value for warfare, but should they turn Turk, it
would be to the great detriment of Christianity, not to say of Italy since there is nothing but a bit
of sea between Albania and Italy.
[Extract from the report of Pjetër Mazrreku [Pietro Maserecco], Breve discorso sopra la natione Albanese
et imparticolar delli habitatori dei Monti di Ducagini dato da me Pietro Maserecco, Arcivescovo d’Antivari
alla S. Cong. de P.F. Archives of the Propaganda Fide, SOCG (Scritture Originali referite nelle
Congregazioni Generali), vol. 263, pp. 271-274, Relazione I/37. Reprinted in: Peter Bartl (ed.), Albania
Sacra, 3 (Wiesbaden 2014), p. 114-118; and in Injac Zamputti (ed.), Dokumente për historinë e Shqipërisë
(1623-1653) (Sankt Gallen & Prishtina 2015), p. 67-72. Translated from the Italian by Robert Elsie.]
Ndoc Deda and Kin Matia in Zadrima costumes
(photo: Pietro Marubbi, ca. 1899-1903).