1675
Jacob Spon:
Voyage down the Coast of Albania
Jacob Spon (1647-1685) was a French Calvinist physician
and archaeologist from Lyon. In 1675-1676, together with
the British clergyman Sir George Wheler (1650-1723), he
undertook a trip to Greece, Constantinople and the Levant
to visit the ruins of the ancient world. The journey was
documented in his much-read volume “Voyage d’Italie, de
Dalmatie, de Grèce, et du Levant, fait aux années 1675 et
1676” (Voyage to Italy, Dalmatia, Greece and the Levant in
the Years 1675 and 1676), Lyon 1678, reprinted in The
Hague in 1724. In it, he reports on what he saw while
sailing down the coast of Albania.
The next day, we sailed to within sight of Ragusa
[Dubrovnik] which is having difficulty recovering
from the terrible earthquake that almost entirely
destroyed it. Twelve miles further on is a village
called Ragusa Vecchia [Old Ragusa] which was the
former Epidaurus. Beyond it is the mouth of Cattaro
[Kotor] which we entered. From there we set sail to
cross the Gulf of Lodrin [the Drin] which is no less
than 180 miles in length. This is the famed Gulf of
Apollonia where Caesar almost lost his life. We left
the little fort of Budua [Budva], the last holding of the
Venetians in Albania. Then, as we sailed along the coast, as we did on our return, we saw Dulcegno,
formerly called Ulcinium [Ulqin/Ulcinj], a Muslim town that had about seven to eight thousand
souls and provided a good moorage, or let us say in the language of the Levant, it was a good town
to do business in. The Francs have a consul here.
The uninhabited island of Sazan off the coast of Vlora, Albania (photo: Robert Elsie, March 2008).
Durazzo [Durrës], which was Dyrrachium under the Romans, is nothing but a village with the ruins
of a fortress. Then comes the Gulf of the Boyana [Buna], with a river of the same name that flows
into it and that was once called the Drilo. Further along the same coast, one encounters the river
Pollona [Pojana], which got its name from its proximity to Apollonia. But the water is still there and
the city can no longer be seen. Then comes Aulon [Vlora] which has been corrupted to Valona, as we
call it. Thirty miles onwards, on terra firma there is a
mountain with a fountain of pitch, mentioned by
ancient writers. Here vessels are made watertight
because it is mixed with tar.
The reef of Saseno [Sazan] which is six miles from
Vlora marks the southeastern border of the Lodrin
[Gulf of the Drin]. While we were crossing this gulf,
we noticed a brig on the southern horizon that sought
to flee when it caught sight of us. This made us think
that they were pirates, in particular when we noticed
that they turned the bow in the direction of the coast
of Vlora. We followed them hot on heels and our
galley did so well that we were within firing distance
of them in one hour. We saluted them with three or
four shots which forced them to lower their sails. As it
turned out, however, it was nothing more than a boat
from Cephalonia that was carrying oil and cheese to
Venice. They had thought that we were the pirates.
Each of us then went his way – the Cephalonians,
relieved that it was only fear they had to fear, and we,
disappointed at having only a glimpse of the profit
that we had hoped for.
The wind was favourable and we did not drop anchor
at Sazan. The captain of our galley told us something
strange that had happened several years ago. At that
time, he was the captain of another galley and had
dropped anchor there. Two galley slaves from his
ship and one from a second escort ship escaped and hid in the bushes until the ships set sail. But
what do you think these poor creatures did? After spending two or three days on a desert island
with nothing to eat, the two men of our galley conspired with one another on how to keep alive
until another ship arrived, and they decided to kill the fellow from the other ship in order to eat
him. They carried this plan out and fed for several days on the poor man’s body until a foreign
vessel happened to arrive. They boarded it and got to Venice.
Near Sazan we could see the Acroceraunian
Mountains that are now called the mountains of
Chimera [Himara]. Along the outer coast, they are
populated by five or six villages that resist the Turks
and refuse to pay haraç, the head tax. The foremost of
these villages is Himara, situated on a rocky
promontory to which the whole population can retire
in case of need. What is more, if anyone wanted to
attack them from the sea, they could withdraw into
their mountains that are virtually inaccessible and
could take their flocks with them. If they were to be
attacked by land, there are passages that are so
narrow that they could drive off an army by pelting it
with stones. They make good soldiers and follow the
Greek faith, and like the Mainots, they are very good
at pillaging. They stem from the Macedonians, as the
Mainots stem from the Lacedaemonians, two equally
warlike peoples. They have a good port called Porto
Panormo but few ships dare to stop there because it is
said that they sell Muslims to the Christians and
Christians to the Muslims. As to their religion, they
are subjects of the Metropolitan of Janina which is a
large city two days away. From here, we began to
enter Greece which gave us as much pleasure as it had once given Aeneas pain when he passed
through this region, as he considered the Greeks the destroyers of his country.
[Excerpt from: Jacob Spon & George Wheler, Voyage d’Italie, de Dalmatie, de Grèce, et du Levant, fait
aux années 1675 et 1676 (The Hague: Rutgert Alberts 1724), vol. 1, p. 69-71. Translated from the
French by Robert Elsie.]
Jacob Spon (1647-1685).
Part of the Albanian section of the narrative
of Jacob Spon’s voyage.
The village of Dhërmi in Himara, Albania
(photo: Giuseppe Massani, 1940).